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LIZ HEATHER

May 27, 2025

The Met's 2024 Costume Exhibit - Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion

by Liz Heather in Best of NYC


YES, this exhibit review post is a year late. Sometimes time moves too quickly, I don’t make the rules. (I did see this year’s exhibit the other day, so you can expect that post a lot sooner (haha, am I lying? Nobody knows).) Thoughts below!

The 2024 Costume Exhibit at The Met, NYC

Absolutely loved the 2024 exhibit. The items were lit very well against a white background (why would they ever deviate from this idea?) and the entire exhibit made great use of the space. It’s true that I don’t (and never will) like when they display things too high up (see above photo), but since there were so many pieces to display I suppose I’ll allow it this one time.

Alexander McQueen, spring/summer 2001

Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton, spring/summer 2011

I’ll never forget the Alexander McQueen exhibit from 2011 (Savage Beauty). I wish I had this site back then so I could have documented how gorgeous and well done it all was. (This oyster dress is burned in my memory forever.)

Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton, autumn/winter 2018-2019

There was a “smell experience” also within the exhibit that was a good idea in theory but didn’t really land in execution. But that didn’t bother me (surprisingly?) because I respect effort.

Oldest line in the book

Love this idea

Bea Szenfeld, spring/summer 2014

Callot Soeurs, wedding ensemble, 1930

I’m patiently waiting for the day that The Met decides to do a wedding costume exhibit. Can. you. imagine. the. decadence. You’d need a whole wing of the museum to do it properly, too. None of this up-high nonsense. I want to see TRAINS. Can someone please put me in charge of something.

Charles James, "Tulip" evening dress, 1949

Charles James, "Butterfly" ball gown, 1955

I didn’t realize cocktail aprons were ever a thing and now I need one (below).

Attributed to Mainbocher, cocktail apron, 1943

Collina Strada, Hillary Taymour, "Meadowsweet" dress, spring/summer 2023

Reminded me of how much I loved that Collina Strada bodysuit from the 2022 exhibit.

Conner Ives, "Couture Girl" dress, autumn/winter 2021-2022

I don’t know if that’s supposed to be hilarious (above) but it is and I love it.

Dauphinette, Olivia Cheng, autumn/winter 2022-2023

Bug dress!

Dolce & Gabbana, 2024 Alta Moda

Okay, I love this rose dress. I mean, I kinda already designed it but as a headpiece.

French ball gown, 1957

Why aren’t we all wearing more capes?

Gucci, Alessandro Michele, cape, autumn/winter 2017-2018

It’s wild that an H&M dress (below) is in this exhibit but I do love that it’s recycled from shoreline plastic waste. Considering how much harm this company has already done to the planet, this seems… dense.

H&M, "Serpentine" dress, spring/summer 2017

House of Dior, “New Junon" evening dress, spring/summer 2017 haute couture

There’s something so timeless about a Dior gown. Just the definitely of elegance, I love them so much.

House of Dior, Yves Saint Lauren, "Rose Rouge" evening dress, spring/summer 1958

Christian Dior, "Venus" ball gown, autumn/winter 1949-1950 haute couture

Christian Dior, May ball gown, spring/summer 1953

I recognize these two Dior dresses (above and below) from the 2016 Manus X Machina exhibit.

House of Dior, "Vilmorin" ensemble, spring/summer 1952

Christian Dior, "Junon" ball gown, autumn/winter 1949-1950 haute couture

House of Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry, spring/summer 2024

A man whispered, “I’ll have the branzino” to his wife while looking at this dress (above) and I’ll be honest, I really laughed. So dumb. People do take this stuff so seriously sometimes, so it’s nice to hear people’s out-loud thoughts.

House of Worth, Charles Frederick Worth, "Tulipes Hollandaises" evening cloak, 1889

BRING BACK THE CLOAK.

Iris van Herpen, "Nautiloid" dress, spring/summer 2020 haute couture

I really love how much fun the Iris van Herpen pieces are. I remember seeing her work for the first time in the 2020 About Time exhibit (online, since it was 2020). I mean, look at how whimsical this one is.

Iris van Herpen, "Physalia" dress, spring/summer 2020 haute couture

Iris van Herpen, autumn/winter 2011-2012 haute couture

There was an entire room devoted to poppies, which I didn’t love. I mean I get it, poppies are associated with remembrance and eternal sleep so it does fit the theme - but I wasn’t in love with the pieces used.

Isaac Mizrahi, "Exploded Poppy" dress, spring/summer 1992

Jasper Conran, Philip Treacy, hat, 1992

Will forever adore any sort of draping.

Attributed to Liberty & Co., 1880s

Marni, Francesco Risso, spring/summer 2024

Marni, Francesco Risso, spring/summer 2024

Mason Martin Margiela, autumn/winter 2014-2015

Sidenote: I loooove this wig coat with my whole heart.

Olivier Theyskens, autumn/winter 2000-2001

Nothing better than a big bouncy dress and I love Oliver Theyskens. Look at this other breathtaking gown he made.

Phillip Lim, Charlotte McCurdy, "Algae Sequin" dress, 2021

Richard Malone, autumn/winter 2020-2021 & Richard Malone, spring/summer 2020

Rodarte, Kate Mulleavy, Laura Mulleavy, spring/summer 2012

Would die for a Rodarte gown. I still have dreams about the one I saw from the In America: A Lexicon of Fashion exhibit from 2022 (seen here). Oh! And can’t forget this gorgeous dress from the Women Dressing Women exhibit in 2024.

Properly lit and positioned garments make me swoon, I’m sorry

Ryunosuke Okazaki, spring/summer 2024

Thom Browne, spring/summer 2019

Viktor & Rolf, Viktor Horsting, Rolf Snoeren, spring/summer 2015 haute couture

Okay, look at how much fun this gown is.

Undercover, Jun Takahashi, spring/summer 2024

Note: this exhibit was on view at The Met from May 10 – September 2, 2024.

And since you’re here, I’ll show you what the rooftop exhibit was at The Met for 2024 as well:

Petrit Halilaj, Abetare, The Met Rooftop, 2024

Petrit Halilaj, Abetare, The Met Rooftop, 2024

Petrit Halilaj, Abetare, The Met Rooftop, 2024

Past fashion exhibits I’ve seen at The Met:

2023 - Women Dressing Women

2023 - Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty

2022 - In America (Part Two): An Anthology of Fashion

2021 - In America (Part One): A Lexicon of Fashion (as well as the updated Part One that a few months later)

2019 - Camp: Notes on Fashion

2018 - Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination (not a full post, but a brief summary)

2016 - Manus x Machine: Fashion in an Age of Technology

I’ve also written about the Thierry Muglar exhibit as well as the Christian Dior one (both at the Brooklyn Museum).

TAGS: The Met, The Met Roof Exhibit, The Met rooftop, The Met new exhibit, The Met fashion, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Met Roof Garden 2024, The Met Costume Institute, The Met fashion exhibit, The Met fashion exhibit 2024, Liz Heather, Liz Heather The Met fashion exhibit, Sleeping Beauties, Reawakening Fashion, clothing exhibit NYC, ball gowns, Alexander McQueen, razor clamshells dress, Sarah Burton, oyster dress Alexander McQueen, smell experience The Met, Bea Szenfeld, Callot Soeurs, wedding ensemble 1930, Charles James tulip evening dress, Charles James butterfly ball gown, cocktail apron, Mainbocher cocktail apron, fashion, Collina Strada, Hillary Taymour, meadowsweet dress, Connor Ives couture girl dress, Dauphinette, Olivia Cheng, red rose dress, Dolce and Gabbana, French ball gown, Gucci cape, Alessandro Michele, H&M, serpentine dress, House of Dior, New Junon evening dress, Dior gown, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Rose Rouge evening dress, Venus ball gown, May ball gown, Vilmorin ensemble, Junon ball gown, haute couture, House of Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry, House of Worth, Charles Frederick Worth, Tulipes Hollandaises evening cloak, Iris van Herpen, Nautiloid dress, evening wear, Physalia dress, poppy room The Met, Isaac Mizrahi, exploded poppy dress, Jasper Conran, Philip Treacy, Liberty & Co, Liberty and Co, Marni, Francesco Risso, Mason Martin Margiela, wig coat, Oliver Theyskens, Phillip Lim, Charlotte McCurdy, Algae Sequin dress, Richard Malone, Rodarte, Kate Mulleavy, Laura Mulleavy, Ryunosuke Okazaki, Thom Browne, Viktor & Rolf, Viktor Horsting, Rolf Snoeren, Undercover, Jun Takahashi, The Met fashion pieces


May 30, 2022

In America: A Lexicon of Fashion at The Met (Updated Pieces!)

by Liz Heather in Best of NYC


So I already reviewed this exhibit, but I went back recently and it’s been updated with new pieces! Why would they do this? The only reason I can come up with is because part two of the exhibit (that came out a few weeks ago) was so revoltingly done that they had to save face. Makes sense! Favourites ahead.

Marc Jacobs, Autumn/Winter 2020

Are we kidding here? All those shades of lilac? Heavenly and way too much fun.

Anne Fogarty, Autumn/Winter 1962-1963

Warmth & elegance at once!

Jamie Okuma, 2021

I think my favourite part of this one is the neckline. One day necklines will be deemed important again and on that day, I will rejoice.

Adolfo, 1973-1974

This yellow frock SHOULD seem matronly, but somehow it isn’t? The simple sweetness of it is contagious.

Vaquera, Autumn/Winter 2019

If there isn’t humour in fashion, we might as well all kill ourselves.

Lùchen, Spring/Summer 2022

Honestly kind of shocked we haven’t seen Rihanna wear this yet. Oh to be taking an accidental nap on a porch swing in this beauty.

Oscar de la Renta, Autumn/Winter 2021-2022

A definite favourite of this whole collection, it’s so full of whimsy. A walking garden, what could be better.

Virgil Abloh, 2022

I really did gasp at this one as soon as I saw it. Romantic, modern pieces like this make me believe in magic. It reminded me immediately of the Rodarte piece (that was displayed in this same exhibit late last year). Breath-taking, even with the basic-ness of the top - it’s letting the skirt shine even stronger.

Collina Strada, Autumn/Winter 2019

God, this would be fun to wear. It’s kind of insane alone (still beautiful), but with some giant long coat on top? Or, oh god, something with feathers?? You’d be unstoppable.

threeASFOUR, Autumn/Winter 2019-2020

I spent at least five minutes staring at this one. It’s fucking ART.

God, this whole updated collection was incredible. It’s wild what proper lighting and display areas will do, who would have thought? Both parts of the exhibit are on display until September 5th.

I also wrote more about each piece on my spring ‘22 highlight reel on Instagram (more specifically where I would wear each of these gorgeous pieces), incase you’re interested.

TAGS: In America, In America exhibit, The Met, The Met fashion, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Marc Jacobs, Anne Fogarty, Liz Heather, fashion, Jamie Okuma, Adolfo, Vaquera, Luchen, Oscar de la Renta, Virgil Abloh, Collina Strada, Threeasfour, costume exhibit, The Met Costume Institute, best of NYC, NYC, New York City